This is - on paper - a powerful red wine that often, in Portugal, makes port. This is - in a McLaren Vale glass - a remarkable and happy red table wine full of life and liberty. It sings and it hums; it is bountiful but there is not a Troy ounce of too much. A beast tamed, or a wild creature let free? Drink it to tell. And drink this with anything you can sear, smoke, salt or slowly stew. Let your kitchen think of Iberia.